Located almost across the Causeway Bay Market complex, there are the ubiquitous stalls that sell everything from herbs to fruits. You'll notice a barrage of signages that are commonplace in Hong Kong. But if you look closer, one stands out because it's not written in Chinese or English -- but in Thai.
It's a little white signage that leads up to a narrow flight of stairs. What greets you at the end is this quaint little Thai grocery which sells everything from spicy sampaloc to coconut milk to tamarind juice.
Television sets are strategically located around the area and they show Thai variety shows which we suspect are beamed in directly from the country. It's your usual Eat Bulaga type of program with slapstick humour, song and dance numbers, and pretty hosts trying to engage the audience.
Then it hits you. There's a narrow door in between the shelves -- it's almost a hole in the wall. For the uninitiated, the crevice is nothing short of a mystery. But for the informed -- like my officemates -- what lies beyond is a taste of real Thai home cooking.
The hole leads to a small room where you see 2 small tables, a few chairs, and the customary dining implements and condiments on top of each. I've been told that local Thais based in HK would scope out this place because the food is as authentic as eating it in Bangkok.
Orders are placed on the cash register. The cashier is also the owner, and the cook, in this joint. Talk about multi-tasking. Don't expect a menu, because there isn't any. But if you're a regular, you'll know what kind of food she serves daily: Pad Thai, Papaya and Crab Salad, Minced Pork, Fried Catfish, just to name a few.
After she takes your order, you are asked to choose your drink from the refrigerator and take your seats. While waiting, you're treated to all the visual trappings of Thailand. Aside from the TV show, there are photos of the King and Queen of Thailand, an altar for Thai monks, and a couple of posters for local brands.
The cooking might take a bit of time since she's working alone in the kitchen. So if you order 4 different types of dishes, she'll take 4 times longer. Crowds coming in opt to either order the same dish, or just pick one of the pre-cooked dishes arranged "carinderia-style" inside the grocery.
My Pad Thai was served first, and the wait was worth it. Both Vivian and I agreed that it's the closest thing to real deal. (We've both tried Pad Thai in Bangkok street kitchens. It's almost the same.) Then the other orders came in one after the other.
Funny thing was, when Prem's order arrived, she noticed that it was missing a boiled egg. She proceeded to ask the waitress/cook/owner where it was. Her reply was to just get it herself because she's still cooking Keat's dish and it might get burned. Talk about a one-woman-show!
While savoring the great cuisine, I gathered more information about this little Thai treasure trove. If you want special dishes, or if you want to order en masse, you have to call them a day in advance. Since the owner/cook/waitress only uses what she finds in her fridge, ordering in advance will prod her to go to the market and buy more ingredients. Also, the owner/cook/waitress only speaks Cantonese and Thai, so English-speaking folks such as myself can either drag along an interpreter, or ask someone who's versed in Thai to write down your order and just show it to the owner/cook/waitress.
Our meal was capped off with the best Papaya/Crab salad I've tried. After that entire experience, we were all satisfied gastronomically and culturally, and had this happy-camperish smile drawn on our faces.
But that wasn't the best part. We later found out that each dish only costs HK$20! That's practically a steal considering how excellent the meal was. Plus, it had the seal of approval from 2 of our native Thai officemates -- so you know that it's really, really good.
While walking back to the office, I found out that the accounts team eat at that hole-in-the-wall place at least once a week. After today's little soujourn, I must say i'll be joining them each time.
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